It’s early March, the sun is shining, and we find ourselves in Hopfgarten, a charming village within the expansive SkiWelt area. Behind the traditional facade of colorful houses, cobbled streets, and towering church lies our destination, Das Hohe Salve Sportresort, whose Move & Relax concept is luring disciples of a different kind. Those in search of restoration through a combination of exercise, regeneration, and nutrition. We are also on a pilgrimage to the slopes of the Skiwelt where we can access a whopping 270km of terrain.

Upon arrival, despite our limited energy, we couldn’t resist exploring the hotel’s modern interior, open-air pools, spa facilities, and impressive gym. However, after a long day of travel, we were ready to embrace the hotel’s relaxed ethos and head to our luxurious room for some rest.

It’s Just before 7 a.m. when the alarm rings and I step onto the balcony. It takes a moment for my eyes to adjust to the sunlit mountains, the bright white nursery slopes and the sight of early morning swimmers lapping the outdoor pools. It’s a sight that provides all the motivation I need for the day ahead.

Downstairs the Das Hohe Salve Sportresort chefs are just as active, greeting guests and taking pride in offering a range of freshly cooked nutritious meals. After asking for their personal recommendation, I order a freshly prepared omelet filled with tomatoes, mushrooms, and fresh herbs. I stop to prepare a smoothie of carrots, apple, cucumber, and ginger and sit down to read the hotel’s daily newspaper which details events for the week ahead. Noting that I am missing the daily ski warmup session, I make a mental note to attend in the future.

For now I have more pressing matters, I need to pick up my gear from the Kurz rental shop and reach the gondola by 8:30 to meet my guide for the day. Thankfully it’s all just a stones throw away from the hotel.

Daniel, our guide from the SkiWelt tourist office, is grinning as I approach. For him it’s the perfect work day, a chance to showcase the splendor of SkiWelt in the March sunshine. With over 270 km of pistes to explore, I’m equally glad that Daniel is here to introduce me to the vast area. Fortunately, Daniel has already planned our route following the SkiWelt Tour, on his suggestions we aim to cover roughly half of the 69 km on offer.

The whole route can be done in a day and offers a choice of  21 valley runs, where you can ensure you  never have to take the same lift or ski the same run twice. I tell him that his suggestion sounds perfect for my first snowboarding day of the season.

With our route planned, we start by heading clockwise, following the SkiWelt’s green signs. Our first stop is the Hohe Salve summit of Hopfgarten at 1829m, where we admire the 360-degree panorama across the SkiWelt region.

After exploring some red pistes, I have my first real test via the Black Pipe, a short black piste that tests my first day nerves. The steep terrain soon smooths out as we glide onto the slopes of Söll, finding wide runs to loosen our legs.

Next is Scheffau, often described as the heart of the SkiWelt. It’s centrally located, easily accessible from surrounding villages, and offers a variety of ski runs for all levels. We tackle several red and blue pistes, spending some time lapping the area. Scheffau also boasts stunning views. The Brandstadlbahn provides a breathtaking perspective of the Wilder Kaiser, while the top of the Osthangbahn showcases the expansive SkiWelt and our starting point at Hohe Salve.

The snow conditions are equally impressive. Whilst other Austrian resorts have ended their seasons early the SkiWelt is in full swing, with all but the lowest slopes open. Thanks to several man-made lakes, snow cannons have been active whenever needed. Daniels explains to keep things sustainable, the meltwater is recaptured at the end of the season, benefiting both the conditions and the environment. On the move again, we head to Ellmau and the Hartkaiser at 1530m, which offers more magnificent views of the Wilder Kaiser and the Kitzbühel Alps.

With burning thighs, we continue through Scheffau into Brixen for a late lunch where we rest on the outside terrace at the Holzalm in Brixen im Thale. We luck out with the best seats in the house with views overlooking the mountains. I choose a Diavola pizza and the heat of the chilies almost matches the warmth of the afternoon sun, which is starting to sizzle us.

As the late afternoon sun makes the snow heavy, we decide to call it a day and retrace our steps back to Hopfgarten taking time to enjoy a few more pistes and some unique lifts like the double Eibergbahnen chairlift which is seeing out it’s last season in the Ski Welt before moving to the resort of Übersee. The plans to replace this with the highly efficient 8 Seater Eiberghan seem equally unique and very eco friendly.

Arriving back in Hopfgarten there is time for a celebratory drink. After clinking glasses, I bid farewell to Daniel and return to the hotel for a lovely evening swimming under the mountains before retreating to the multiple spa and sauna rooms. The Move & Relax concept is clearly working.

Later that evening, we arrive at a restaurant for the first of our many nutritious meals. Tonight I choose a salad, celery and pear soup, brown trout with beetroot risotto and horseradish foam, and a pistachio tartlet for dessert. We pair this with local white wine and after dessert head to the terrace to watch the sunset with an Aperol spritz from the hotel bar. It’s been a perfect day.

The next day, after finding my bearings, I head back to Hochbrixen for a lunchtime tour of a different kind at the AlpenIglu Ice Village. Each season, international ice artists flock to the SkiWelt to carve this extraordinary world of snow and ice. This year’s theme centers around sea creatures, and my favorite is a walrus with tusks that look like they could cause real damage if dislodged.

With prices around 5 euros for adults and 3 euros for children, it’s an affordable and magical way to spend a few hours. Stepping back into the blazing afternoon sun, I’m met with a completely different scene: DJs playing live music and deck chairs adorning the slopes. It feels like I’ve gone from the land of ice to a land of fire, and it’s the perfect place to rest my feet with a cold drink before heading back to Hopfgarten. Feeling adventurous, I search out the modern 10-seater Hexenwasser Gondola where I enjoy a comfortable ride, listening to informative stories about the region and its witches. The cafe and gift shop at the gondola station are equally spellbinding and provide a great opportunity to buy some souvenirs.

With the SkiWelt casting its spell on me, I decided to make the most of the afternoon by cruising around the area using a multitude of lifts before returning to the hotel.

The next morning, determined to make it to the gym for the ski warm-up, I join an exercise session that includes strengthening, stretching, and conditioning designed to prepare you for a day on the slopes. Or should I say a ‘Retro Ski Day,’ where throwback clothing and lift pass prices take center stage? Arriving a bit late, I feel slightly out of place in my modern snowboard gear compared to the vibrant neon one-pieces and bum bags that are brightening up the slopes.

The previously quiet March pistes are now distinctly busier, with everyone enjoying a perfect day on soft snow in their nostalgic outfits. The retro atmosphere tempts us to set aside our snowboards and healthy lifestyle for an afternoon of sun-soaked relaxation at the Tenner Stadl at 1177m. With an atmosphere this good, we couldn’t resist. Live DJs pump out tunes, cold beers flow, and the weather is beautiful. Watching the youngsters cutting some moves in their 80’s-style outfits dancing energizes us to join in, even though it’s only midday.

Feeling slightly breathless we leave the younger crowd behind and board the Hohe Salve gondola for food at the Gipfelalm restaurant. From the rotating terrace we can see a 360° panorama of the SkiWelt, we also see the menu and order a burger, chips, and beer, and try not to count the calories. What we can count are the brightly colored paragliders riding the thermals high above the valley floor. It’s a superb sight, and we linger at the rotating restaurant whilst enjoying this spectacular bluebird day.

Determined to get back on track after a day of indulgence the snowboard is briefly strapped back on for a final descent, but when we hear live music and see people dancing we can’t resist one final stop to enjoy the spring sun and retro vibes. It truly has been a special day.

After our day of excess we start our last morning in Hopfgarten with a final dip in the outside pool. Opting for the Olympic-sized pool, we swim a dozen laps before retiring to the wellness facilities for a sauna and steam room. With all of the previous day’s excesses sweated out, we’re back to feeling great. With our bags packed, we enjoy a leisurely lunch on the terrace where we are served a regional cheese and meat platter with pickles and bread.

Satisfied, it’s time to check out and bid farewell to our week of moving and relaxing—a philosophy that, if we continue in the off-season, might see us fit into our retro ski gear just in time for next year’s party!

If you’re looking to move and relax, you can easily reach the SkiWelt and the Hohe Salve from the nearby airports of Innsbruck (80 km), Salzburg (80 km), and Munich (150 km). Frequent rail options are available, and the hotel offers a discount for taking the eco option and arriving by rail.

The hotel also provide a free bus and train travel card that covers the Kitzbühel Alps region.  
We chose to travel to the resort on a shared coach provided by Four Seasons Travel, which provided a return journey from Munich for 148 euros per person. 
You can find full details of the Ski Welt area here.