It’s Summer and with our boards gathering dust we have decided to embark on an eco mission to experience the midnight sun in the ski resort of Salla. Forgoing the usual airport routes to Rovaniemi and Kuusamo we headed to Helsinki in search of the arctic night train to lapland. 

Stepping past the imposing ‘men from the future’ statute, we push through the heavy doors and step into the stunning Art Deco interior that flows through to the platform where another feat of engineering idles, behold the Arctic Sleeper train! Our transport through the night to lapland. The 14 hour overnight journey ahead uses just 2.27 kg/co2 of carbon dioxide emissions versus an eye watering 249,92 kg/co2 if we arrived by plane.

Climbing on board we head to the upper deck where we stash our cases in the luggage compartment of our comfy cabin, we test out the bunk beds before using the shower to freshen up for lunch. Heading to the dining cart we order a ‘Karhu’ bear beer and a nordic classic meatballs, mash and berries, a dish they serve to over 80,000 customers each year. It is the perfect place to spend the evening watching a world of lakes and forests drift by.

Returning to our bunks we are gently rocked to sleep by the movement of the train and sleep soundly to our destination of Kemijarvi where a daily bus bound for Salla awaits. It is here we meet Heli, our guide for the week who is eager to take us to our first stop, the Salla Museum of War and Reconstruction. On route she gives us a potted history of how the call of the wilderness and Salla stole her heart over 15 years ago, since then she has brought a family up here and become an ambassador for all things Salla through her role in the tourism office. The short transfer provides a perfect opportunity to admire a landscape of ancient forests, lake and natures occasional traffic jam.

This passion is evident throughout the trip but particularly shows in our time in the museum where she reflects on how the destruction of Kuoloyarvi in wartime affected the people in Salla and how from the ashes the municipality of Salla, tested by the war, struggled to rise once again. It is an emotional story close to her heart and clearly resonates in the current climate. The mood lifts as we watch footage of a post war ski race in Salla (first Alpine National Championship race in Finland 1937, held in Sallatunturi fell that was left on the Russian side on the war), sitting in a traditional wartime living room the captivating black and white images show skiers risking life and limb hurtling down a roughly formed course, safety gear is absent and we all take turns guessing which tree they might end up in, we all end up laughing.

Stepping out of the past and into the present we arrive at ÄinPäin-day. The premise seems simple enough with 24 hours of daylight, why not just flip all the opening times of the town's shops so they are open at night instead of the day. We always wondered if the weeks under the midnight sun must have a tendency to make people act a little eccentric but I did not expect to see a crowd gathered watching a lady throwing her boots in the air with the hope of landing them in a rung on a ladder. The cheers seemed to suggest the higher the rung the more points you obtained or at least that is what we make of the game.

Elsewhere at the supermarket an excited crowd are playing bingo and when a scream goes up for a full house we watch the winner strolls past to claim the winning prize of a kayak, amazing!. This theme continues outside the diy shop at the climax of the event a raffle / karaoke where the prizes range from an axe, shoe vouchers and finally a pizza coupon for a local restaurant. The whole town are out in solidarity and when it is announced that the event has raised enough money for charity to build a public sauna for Salla, an applause rings out under the evening sun. It has been quite a welcome to this little town in the middle of nowhere.

Slowly adjusting to the rhythm of midsummer the next day as we make our way to the nearby Salla Wilderness Park. It is here we first encounter Lars, a man who wears many hats around the town. He has long hair, a beard and a huge smile that never fades. 

Entering the presentation hall, Lars supplements his slideshow with entertaining stories about the history and lifestyle of a reindeer herder. Taking us outside into the forest Lars produces bucket loads of animal feed, dozens or scoops and sends us into the trees to feed the hungry herd. Some of the group look a little startled by the approaching mouths but we find it wonderful to be surrounded on all sides by the ravenous reindeer. Things get even more perfect down by the lakeside where we can take multiple pictures of the reindeers posing against the backdrop of Salla, perfect  for the social media generation.

We mentioned Lars would be a returning character in our story  but we didn’t expect to see him later that day with an Indian canoe tucked under his arm. Probing him for more information about his evening job, he explained his current c.v includes reindeer farmer, canoe instructor and snowboard instructor. Having got that out of the way Lars provided a thorough tutorial on how to propel and steer the boats before pushing us out into the water. To be fair we were both a little hesitant as we drifted away from the shoreline anticipating a dip into the lake, thankfully the boats are as steady as Lars promised and we quickly find our rowing rhythm to head across the lake.

In the distance we hear Lars making bird calls in response to the nearby nature who knows if they are answering his calls but it seems to keep him smiling. In no rush to return It’s approaching midnight as our Indian canoe glides across the stillness of the Hangasjärvi -lake, the sun blazes high above us whilst the surrounding forest has fallen eerily silent. The only sound is the repetition of our paddles hitting the water guiding us back to the shoreline. Igniting a fire by the shoreline we brew some fresh coffee, sizzle some sausages and settle down.

It is hear Lars talk further of his love for snowboarding and despite his aging years his love of freestyle, surely a young man's game we question?

“Nonsense, I will jump off anything he says and when they take my photo I always do my superman post flying with my arm stretched outwards, whether I land or not is a different question”. 

Trying to shake the thoughts of Lars mid-flight in a superman outfit out of our heads we gather up the canoes and depart the ancient forest with the midnight sun illuminating the lake in a golden glow. 

After our first experience in the forest we were eager to return on foot the next day with a new local character in tow. Enter Hermanni, hairier than Lars and with even more energy, this award winning english springer spaniel becomes our guide for the day on a hike to the Oulanka Canyon in the Oulanka National Park , a steep-faced gorge located about 2 km from the Savilampi Parking Area. 

Our 5km  circular route climbs through an ancient forest of vibrant greens foliage and crystal clear waters that provide ideal swimming pools for our furry friend. Climbing high above the forest floor the glistening  Oulankajoki river comes into view as it flows through a narrow, rocky canyon. It provides a perfect backdrop for Hermanni to pose for some photos and for us to gaze into the distant lakes and expansive forest of Salla.

Descending to the lower ground, we are able to get up close and personal to the river by heading across the Savilampi suspension bridge which is located close to a wilderness hut where we stop for a brief respite before hiking back to the car park. Our stomachs are starting to rumble as we see the welcome sight of the  Napapiiri café, where we are greeted by the owner Kalle Koskinen who offers us some homemade soup and rye bread. Sitting down Kalle explains his environmental plans for the new business. It is a plan that comprises three arctic cabins specifically designed for hikers walking the 82-km long Karhunkierros hiking trails.

The cabins are basic but beautiful,consisting of a wood stove and a number of beds. There is no electricity or running water in the cabins but amenities such as toilets, showers and wireless internet can all be found a stone's throw away in the main building. It is not only hikers who will be attracted here, day trippers can enjoy the Karhunkierros Visitor Centre which provides interesting information around the local wildlife in the surrounding forest and next door is a pub that we are told is the place to be for a lively weekly karaoke night. 

Taking us outside Kalle stops by the Arctic Circle sign which he describes with pride as a popular photo spot. Walking us round the back of the building we are taken to a clearing where we see the cabins in the flesh. It is here Kalle begins to describe how Salla has enticed him away from a busy life as a director of a number of IT companies he describes how his day has turned completely upside down from spending 90 percent of his day on the computer to a now reluctant 10 percent of his day.

Seemingly very happy in his new role cooking soup and becoming at one with nature he leaves us to tighten our boots once more as we drive back to the resort centre for an ascent of the nearby Iso-Pyhä fell in Salla National Park. 

All of the paths to the fell are clearly marked and all difficult or boggy terrain is covered with wooden walkways, which allows you to feel right in the heart of the forest whilst keeping the routes accessible. As we climb above the treeline the fell of Iso Pyhätunturi comes into view. It is the highest peak in the Salla National Park at 477 m above sea level. Thankfully the final ascent over a boulder strewn landscape is made easier thanks to  a modern staircase. When we finally reach the top a little more breathless than our furry friend Hermanni we can’t believe the amazing views.

From the viewing tower which pronounces Salla to have the cleanest air in the world you can see the old Sallatunturit fells Sallatunturi, Välitunturi and Rohmoivaon on the Russian side of the border. We need a few minutes to take the beauty of it all in, turning around and absorbing all 360 degrees of the view what strikes us is how unspoilt it all is. There is no evidence of manmade interference in any direction and it is truly remarkable for the senses. This combination of blending infrastructure into the landscape whilst leaving nature unspoilt are one of the many reasons why in 2022 Salla was successful in its bid to become the 41st national park of Finland. praise indeed given its status as a quiet gem in the middle of nowhere.

Returning to base we allow all of this to soak in as we sit slopeside in the sun sampling a Salla beer direct from the Rovaniemi brewery.

It is then on foot we head to Kiela, a beautiful restaurant kitted out in a scandi style. Opting for a reindeer steak we reflect on what Lars had said earlier in the trip about how reindeers are an essential source of food to the people of Lapland and they use all of the animal. Full and satisfied from an amazing meal we raise  our weary legs off the chair and take a short stroll back to our apartment in the Holiday Club Salla where we sit out on the balcony taking in our last night there absorbing the daylight till 2 am before heading to bed. 

 
It’s 9:30 am and we are packed and moving on to the rather spectacular Kuuru Lakeside Suites. Nestled amongst a selection of birch trees the accommodation reflective one way glass offers complete privacy whilst still attracting intrigued glances from passing walkers. Inside the suites contain sustainable and ecological choices throughout, solid wood has been chosen as a  building material that has bound more carbon dioxide and carbon in itself than it can release at the end of its life cycle.

The interior continues the use of natural elements from domestic companies as well as local entrepreneurs in the area.  It is all rather impressive and no words can quite capture the feeling of sinking onto the bed and observing the changing landscape of the lake and Sallatunturi fell, in one word this is heaven. It is a real struggle to leave the bed and head to Salla Ski & Active where Emilia, our guide, is waiting by a fleet of e-bikes.

Once we are all comfortable with the workings of the bikes its onto the forest where the fat tyres make easy work of the trails passing through cotton patches, over duck board and finally over some rather large stones. 

It is all going exceptionally well until Emilia takes a last second diversion, the combination of an unplanned turn onto a steep incline in low power mode and a high gear means the chain comes off. It only takes a few moments to fix the issue and when the laughs finally subside and Emilias’ blushes fade we climb back onto the saddle and pedal for the summit of the Sallatunturi fell. 

It is here the views open up to reveal a 360 degree panorama of the ski resort. The winter lift infrastructure is clearly visible as are signs pointing out the red and black pistes of Kisarinteet and Eturinteet. Mounting our bikes again we edge towards the top of the black piste, this straight downhill track is used as a stop for professional speed skiing, a sport where competitors reach a blistering 250 kph. Standing atop the platform and peering down the run in we make a retreat to somewhere more comfortable for a leisurely lunch. The perfectly placed hammocks provide an amazing rest spot to recharge our bodies for a fast paced descent back to the door of Salla Ski & Active. 

Back at base we have a quick tour around of the facilities stopping to buy some Salla merchandise made with economically sourced cotton in Finland. We then pick up a couple of paddleboards and bid farewell to Emilia. Joining us for the afternoon on the lake once again is our good friend Hermanni and Heli with her family in tow. Using some eco energy everyone pumps up their paddle boards and pushes out onto the water of Keselmäjärvi lake. Boarding a SUP for the first time requires a leap of faith to go from a kneeling position to standing up, initially it all feels a bit unfamiliar and our legs need some time to adjust.

Once confident with our stance and our legs have stopped shaking we grow in confidence and paddle further out into the water. Heli, Hermarni and the kids seem equally at peace as they paddle further into the distance and towards an island on the lake. It is here growing in confidence we head to the shoreline and try an elegant dismount which ends with the board sliding from under us, emerging soaked from the watery depth I notice my hat sinking behind me, retrieving it like an aqua indiana jones it is placed back on my head as we board the island. Through a clearing in the trees is  a Nuotiopaikka fire shelter. 12 years old Julius shows off his wilderness skills by getting the fire going, making the perfect cup of coffee and grilling sausages for us.

Leaving our hosts behind we take a final journey back across the lake to the distant Kuuru lakeside lodges, Reaching the shoreline without a soaking this time we pull the paddleboard out of the water and head indoors for a rest. Timing is everything they say and as the previously bright sunlight disappears behind the clouds we stretch out on the bed and gaze out across the lake, watching the rain grow in intensity we witness a spectacular lightning storm that finally subsides as we drift off to sleep exhausted from another perfect day in the middle of nowhere.

After a week of such perfection we reluctantly answer Heli’s call and climb out of the bed knowing we will soon be leaving Salla. Thankfully we are going out with a bang by attending ‘Salla Day’, created to celebrate the naming day of Salla since 1981. This annual event sees people come from far and wide to visit to celebrate its culture and people. The town centre is once again bustling, this time with a multitude of street vendors selling local produce. We opt for some homemade reindeer earrings, a tablecloth and finally a big bag of liquorice which seems to be a staple for everyone in Finland. 

Following our noses we find ourselves joining the queue of people waiting to sample the freshly cooked local Salmon. Smoked and mounted on wood the fish is cooked to perfection melting in the mouth. Taking a seat alongside us for lunch is Carla whose heart has also been stolen away by Salla, leaving behind the port city of Portsmouth UK she is now carving out a life as a snowmobile instructor in the winter and working in the tourism office over summer. 

She points out the nearby care home and explains that Salla day is hosted nearby as it is important that elderly can gain easy access to the event. It is very touching to see this incorporated into the event and the care and respect for the elderly is something that is sadly long gone in many towns. Carla adds “You won’t believe it but they take them out skiing, pushing them round the outside of the care home in winter.” It is just another marvelous revelation that makes you understand why people remain in Salla for life and it is not just a transient ski village. Walking to the large stage in the middle of the festival we watch open jawed amazed as Lapland’s number one rap artist Talonpoika (Lalli Mustakallio) walks onto the stage, we can’t really understand the Finnish lyrics he is throwing down but they are all about lapland and activities like fishing, reindeer herding and being at one with nature. It sounds great to us and  when his anthem ‘Make Lapland Great Again’ erupts from the speakers we can finally join the crowd in belting out the chorus. After a week discovering just how great Lapland is we put his anthem down to the Finnish humour coming out one last time. Heading to the local restaurant we have time for one last  finnish long drink before bidding our new friends in Salla goodbye. Returning to our carriage on the Arctic Sleeper train we eventually fall asleep dreaming of this little piece of  heaven in the middle of nowhere!

If you would like to take an adventure to Salla we recommend taking the arctic express from Helsinki to Kemijarvi. Tickets can  be booked through VR.Fi

The Visit Salla website provides further information should you wish to make your own journey to the Arctic Circle.

If you would like to learn more about sustainability in Salla you can read more on the following resources:

Responsible Tourism in Salla

Give back to Local Nature -campaign

Salla Ski & Environmental Program and Responsibility