It all began so peacefully, I had set off with the sole purpose of taking a restorative trip through the snow-capped mountains of the Valais region of Switzerland. Travelling on an exceptional network of planes, trains and electric automobiles, my first few days took in the charming delights of Crans Montana before heading to the lesser known but no less picturesque resort of Nax.

Indeed a most pleasurable stay was had sliding down sun drenched slopes and sampling the delights of the region. I gorged on the local beef, beer and cheese all whilst building up a healthy goggle tan.

Eager to explore the town of  Nax a little further I peered through the window of the the ‘Mont Noble’ a quaint little restaurant where upon entry I was summoned to share a drink with a friendly bunch of locals. Enquiring about the next stage of my journey I informed them that I was having a dilemma about where to travel next through the splendid region.

Producing an age stained pamphlet one of the locals spoke up “Have you considered visiting the Carnaval d'Evolène? If you really want to experience our authentic traditions you must visit the carnaval.” 

Pausing to stare at the sepia toned images I began to day dream about a world of yesteryear and the traditions of the carneval. Evolène looked simply stunning could it still be so perfect? Snapping back tothe present day I charged my glass “Proscht” I uttered before stating my intent to venture to Evolène the very next day.

The next morning with bags packed I took one last look at beautiful village of Nax and boarded my carriage to the carneval. The driver whisked me up and down mountain passes before finally arriving at the delightful village of Evolène where from the my window seat I glimpsed an array of shops, traditional houses and taverns whose windows were decked out for the carneval. 

Driving onwards the bright lights of the town faded away and ahead lay my accomodation the ‘Gite Rural’ a wonderful building that consisted of a converted farm house with an inner structure designed in the style of a bee hive. Stepping out of the vehicle I commented to the driver how lovely it was to hear the sound of bells ringing in the distance. Looking slightly nervous the driver turned to me and spoke quietly “beware of the bells sir, they are not what they seem.” Somewhat perplexed by the warning I concluded something must have been lost in the translation.

Tired from my travels I fell to sleep on the luxurious bed, only to be awoken by familiar dialect coming from the downstairs lounge. Intrigued I headed downstairs and found a group of English men and women who had also been lured by the prospect of the Carnaval.  Exchanging pleasantries with the group they took pity on this lone traverler and invited me out to share the evening with them. 

The first destination was took in a demonstration from a local mask maker Hugo Beytrison. Gathering tightly in a dimly lit room the towering presence of Hugo stepped out from under the low hung beams and approached us clutching a selection of masks. The ‘Peluche’ as we would come to know them were hand carved from Swiss pine and the attention to detail was breath taking, as was the experience of being inside one of the heavy masks. He explained the festival traditions and warned us that the ‘Peluche’ would be out in force that very evening stalking their prey.

Settling down for dinner at the Au vieux mazot restaurant I opted for a mouth-watering steak which was washed down with a red wine of the region. It was then I noticed one overly attentive staff member embracing several of the gentlemen in the group, it seemed everyone was welcoming when it came to carneval time. Bidding our hosts a fond farewell we approached the bustling high street where a festival atmosphere was starting to build. Hordes of the fearsome peluche were now roaming the streets, ringing their huge cow bells and  grabbing innocent victims. Deciding not to chance an encounter with them I crept past a gathering of ghouls as a darkness descended over the town.

The next morning I eagerly opened my balcony doors to bright blue skies and the glistening slopes of Evolène. Downstairs the group seemed in equally high spirits and we were all ready early to head en-masse to the pistes of Evolène. The ski bus took us to the resorts one and only chairlift which ascended high above the valley floor leaving the green fields of Evolène far below. Pausing at the summit to take in the scenery and plan out a route for the morning we set off through the snow spending a pleasurable morning navigating a variety of pistes offering various gradients, spring snow and spectacular views. 

By early afternoon it was time to take lunch at a mountain restaurant where a local folk band entertained the crowd. As we were serenaded the band grew in size and spectacle and it was quite a sight to see an array of instruments transported up the lift system. With black and white facepaint the full group finally assembled on the pistes and entertained the crowd with an energetic steampunk sound.

The sound of music however sweet was about to take a darker tone though as the brass band were accompanied by the now familiar ringing of bells. It seemed that even in daylight we were not safe from the peluche who were now departing the lift in droves, quickly destroying the quite alpine charm.

Frantically trying to avoid the mark of the beast I strapped on my snowboard, leaving a partly devoured lunch behind and headed down the only route available to me a long winding blue piste back to the village. Thinking I had the upper hand I raced down the powder filled slopes with a widening grin which was soon wiped off my face as the once pristine snow turned to slush. 

As fur cones and stones grinded under my board base I had to commit defeat, unstrapping my board I walked down the remainder of the mountain. With time running out I ran for the idling ski bus leaving the Peluche far above me or so I thought!

The Peluche it seemed had even taken over the ski bus, surrounded on all sides i fashioned a crucifix made of some nearby ski poles and prayed for the best as the bus rumbled back into town. With the monsters a little too close for comfort we hopped off the bus unscathed and hurried back ot the hotel. 

After a few drinks to steady our nerves it was decided that we should head out en masse for a few drinks. It was a Saturday night and there was merriment to be had, ever wary of the Peluche prowling we ventured to a number of busy taverns and listened to the live folk bands whilst meeting ever stranger folk. 

Our final destination was a pop up tent filled with a myriad of creatures of the night all dancing to the latest euro pop sounds. We joined them for a few numbers, before breathless and feeling our age we called it a night leaving the younger crowd to party the night away. Walking back under the spectacular star filled skies it was easy to forget the distant sounds of the Peluche. 

With a head ringing like one of those blasted cow bells I rose for my final day at the festival. Clearly an important date in the calendar our local guide did his best to explain the bizarre sight that greeted us on arrival into town.  The young men of the village were garbed in hessian sacks that were being stuffed with straw to pad them out.

The impressive empaillés (scarecrows) as we would come to know them were kitted out with a rice broom and their job as far as I could understand was to sweep away the winter spirits and to welcome in the spring.

Having to lumber round in a costume this size combined with a baking hot sun and high quantities of alcohol it's fair to say they had a hard task on their hands. However with the glorious sunny weather and green fields starting to show in town it seemed that they may have already achieved their goal afterall it was only mid February. 

Deciding to embrace the carneval atmosphere one more time we danced in the streets, visited the many local stalls, and sunk knee deep into the glitter that rained down from every angle. Feeling less fearful of the Peluche by daylight and the newly introduced empaillés I joined them for a merry sway through the streets. Taking in the scent of the fleeces was enough to sharpen my focus, I quickly made my move barely dodging a swinging rice broom and escaped their clutches.

Hungry from all of the festivities we took in one last evening meal, where the conversation turned to whether we intended to stay for the climax of the festival. Carnival Tuesday, our guide explained was an event that sees the whole village gather around a huge bonfire to set alight the spirit old man winter. Feeling somewhat overwhelmed by Sunday’s proceeding and not sure I had the energy for another few days of partying I declined the invitation and let the group know of my intention to leave the very next day bringing my stay in Valais to a satisfying conclision. With one last toast I wished the group well and returned to get some rest before an early departure.

The next morning I said my final goodbyes to my new friends and began the journey back to Sion where I planned to board the next train to the familiar surroundings of Zurich and "that sir is how I come to be on board your train. I know it all sounds quite fantastical but I must ask have you ever been to Evloene and sampled the delights of the festival?"

"Oh I have sir and what a fascinating story you have told, one that must not be re-told”

Ringing the trains stop bell a sound that now shredded my every nerve, the inspector called out the next destination “Everybody off for Evolene” . It was then out of the corner of my eye I saw with horror the trains mail room clerk producing a hessian mail sack. He instructed me to get inside and as the sack tightened around me I heard the train door slide open. Outside the sound of approaching bells rang out and somewhere in the fresh mountain air I heard the crackle of a fire and as the smell of smoke hit my nostrils I drifted out of consciousness…….

*Editors note: Our reporter has not been heard of since the festival and all that has been left behind are these notes which we have cobbled together*

If you would like to join the serach for him and visit the festival more information can be found on the Carnaval d'Evolène website.

SWISS airline Offers regular fights to Geneva.

Swiss Travel Pass gives you unlimited access to Swiss travel network on trains, buses and boats. It’s sold for 3, 4, 8 and 15 days. It also allows a free entrance to over 500 museums and exhibitions and 50% discount on mountain excursions.  The nearest airport is at Geneva/Sion and the nearest train station to Evolene is at Sion.