An ice cold Christmas wind cuts the silence whilst all around fresh snowfall glistens across the Jungfrau Alps. Suspended high above the valley floor and staring directly at the imposing north face of the Eiger our party’s fate is trusted to the overhead cables that support our staggering 6483m length journey to the Eiger Glacier Station. Well that was the cliff-hanger moment playing out in my mind as I reclined in the comfort of a heated seat and watched transfixed as the ice-crusted Eiger drifts by. Welcome aboard the ‘Eiger Express’ the longest tricable gondola in the world, where 44 cabins with 26 seats whisk 2,200 visitors an hour up to the Eiger Glacier station. It is a journey that has taken the 10 years to plan and build and takes just 15 minutes to complete. Forgoing a grand opening due to COVID, it is only now that we can see how it has totally transformed the access to the ski areas and become the  jewel in the crown of Grindelwald's Terminal project. 

Speaking of the Terminal minutes earlier we found our feet on more solid ground as we departed the train from Interlaken and began our tour round this state of the art facility. Suspended on gigantic concrete legs and clad in rows of wooden slats, the build somehow remains sympathetic to the surroundings of this Unesco world heritage site. The natural surroundings are something that have been carefully considered throughout the whole build, from the neutral tones of black and grey of the Eiger Express chosen to blend into the backdrop of the Eiger, to the painstaking removal and reinstallation of delicate alpine meadows whilst the gondola pylons were being installed. 

Entering the building itself l am first struck at how unique it feels to start an alpine day at a purpose built indoor destination rather than rushing for first lifts. It would be easy to spend a few hours here browsing the shopping destinations, eating and drinking in one of the bars, restaurants or even the VIP room for a snip at 12000 CHF a year. In fact it would be quite tempting to not go on the pistes at all with wares ranging from the essentials at the COOP, to Kirchofer watches, Jungfrau souvenirs and a luxury chocolate shop there is something here for everyone. Throw in the convenient train terminal and the 1,000 capacity underground parking facility and you have a destination for everyone, with the added plus point of leaving Grindelwald itself relatively traffic free.

Concluding our whirlwind tour we head en-masse to the Intersport rental shop where our group kitted out and prepared for our day on the slopes. We then get our first glimpse of the ski locker area which feels like a scene from a futuristic sci-fi film as we pass row upon row of polished metal lockers, armed with just a personal locker number we swipe, enter and stash away our belongings.Upstairs our guide Gian Simmen waits eager to take us on a journey of the pistes of Grindelwald via the state-of-the-art tricable gondola the Eiger Express and the 10-person aerial gondola to Männlichen. Gian, now a Grindelwald veteran, spends the journey up the Eiger Express recounting his own remarkable ascent. 

The year is 1998 and 20 year old Gian has just scraped through to the Nagano Olympic halfpipe final by placing third in the qualifying rounds. The odds still look heavily stacked against him going much further but when his beanie flies off midway through a Cab 720 you get the feeling something special might be happening. When the judges announce a whopping 85.2, Gian’s face beams he has done the unthinkable and claimed the gold medal. That run captured a moment in time when snowboarding was the scruffy newcomer and a virgin event at the Olympics, half pipes were barely shaped and just a fraction of the size they are now. 

And whilst the gold medal was an amazing achievement it is not something that has defined Gian, now locked safely away in a Swiss bank it is the future of Grindelwald that holds his attention and with previous experience managing the resort snow park and personally testing all of the features he is definitely the golden candidate for showing us the slopes.

Leading us out of the gondola we arrive at the Eiger Glacier snow a full 47 minutes quicker than the train and it is this pace that is kept up through the morning as we whisk across the multiple pistes.

 

Surrounded by fresh snow, empty pistes and expert guidance we quickly cover the  terrain. Particular highlights of the day included riding the red and blue pistes (22), (25) and (26) off of the Eigernordwand and Arven chairlifts and also the reds from the top of the Wixi lift where as well as gazing at the spectacular scenery you can see the famous starting point of the Lauberhorn the longest downhill ski race in the world at just over 2.7 miles in length. Sadly not open to the public until after the race we instead head onto the Engi (44) a run that goes all the way to the bottom of the Wixi that felt almost as exhilarating.

After a morning of an Olympic champion putting us through our paces we were all more than ready for our lunch stop at the Restaurant Eigergletscher. Outside the a panoramic terrace proved a perfect place to take in the views of the Mönch and Jungfrau and the ice blue break-up of the Eiger Glacier. Stepping indoors a warm welcome awaits and we sit down to choose from a menu full of traditional Swiss cuisine. I opt first for the ‘Tagestellar’ consisting of Bratwurst, Rosti, rich gravy and a side salad.

This was then followed with the sublime in house confectionery specialities Eigerspitzli and Rahmschnitte. Slowly bringing our aching legs back to life and leaving the fur cladded chairs we take a short stroll around the Eigergletscher and watch the trains and tourists pass by before taking another tour around the wonderfully empty pistes.

Our final descent sees us hop back aboard the Eiger Express and onto the terminal for an après ski drink at the Bistro Terminal. With tired legs and arms we say our goodbyes to Gian and leave our equipment in our heated lockers for a private overnight stay.  It is then one stop on the train to Grindelwald centre where the drinks flow once more within the comfort of the Romantik Hotel Schweizerhof*****.

Starting early the next day there is just time for a quick breakfast in the hotel restaurant  before boarding the outside train back to the terminal where now accustomed to gentle sway of the gondola I drift off and dream of our next adventure exploring the ghosts of Grindlewald’s past at the Top of Europe the marvellous Jungfraujoch.

The year is 1912 and after a 16 year construction period the workers have somehow conquered the Jungfrau Mountain. Silence finally falls across the construction site as the workers have inch by painful inch pickaxed, drilled and blasted their way through the rock. The mammoth task of building the Jungfrau Railway is complete! 

Guyer-Zeller the mastermind behind all this, would sadly never get to see the completed masterpiece, dying prematurely aged just 59 long before the train had reached its destination. Elsewhere the death toll was even higher with at least 30 Italian workers losing their lives in the frequent dynamite blasts. The workers downed tools at least six times and agreed to return to work after lengthy negotiations led to the promise of a guaranteed bottle of red wine per worker per day. These were very different times and It is the sheer danger and depth of determination to complete the project that remains with me most as we embark on our high altitude ascent from Kl. Scheidegg to the Jungfraujoch summit.

Sat inside the carriage the cog wheels whir into life pulling us up the steep ascent inside the mountain towards the Eismeer mid-station where stepping through the hollowed out rock we approach the only source of daylight, a huge viewing window. Despite the glass pane securing us from the elements my knees still quake a little as I peek out of the window and view the sheer rock face above and below. I can only imagine how the original tourists reacted as they walked outside onto a delicate looking wooden platform and gaze onto the Eismeer glacier.

This view at Eismeer would remain the false summit for seven long years from 1907-1912 until the Jungfrau summit station was completed and the final first tourist arrived on a festively decorated train that climbed the 9.3 kilometre route to the Jungfrau plateau. It is here we make our own festive stop at the the top of Europe. Wandering through a 360 degree movie experience and then through stone walls adorned with a history of the build, it hits home just how advanced our past masters project was.

It is remarkable to think over a hundred years ago Guyer-Zeller and his team were looking towards green energy by building the ‘Lütschental’ , a hydroelectric power station that has kept the cogs turning on the railway ever since.

Thankfully this respect for the environment has fueled thinking in the  modern era with a wood fired heating plant in Grindelwald that is able to produce CO2-neutral energy. Elsewhere up on the Eiger Express the cabins' heated seats and television screens are all powered by a heat recovery system that generates power from the wheels as they move. 

And whilst all of these initiates are encouraging to witness the evidence of a looming environmental disaster never feels far away as we pass through a gallery highlighting the receding glacier. This thought hangs in the air further as we slide through the next spectacle, the Ice Palace. Created by pickaxe and handsaw by the mountain guides of the 1930’s their work is now complemented with skilfully carved ice sculptures from more modern masters.

Out of the icy walls an eagle leaps talons piercing the ice, a bear roars protecting its cubs, whilst an ice piano gently tinkles or was it just the sound of melting ice dropping onto the keys that at -3 Celsius are also suffering the effects of global warming.

Leaving the ice white wonderland behind our eyes take a moment to adjust to the brightness. Opting to ascend the final 117 metres via lift rather than the optional stairs we climb past tourists exploring the shops and restaurants before reaching the 4,000 metre Sphinx observatory viewing platform. It is here the altitude really starts to hit home and as we step outside onto the imposing steel structure we all feel a little light headed.  Everything feels a little disorientating in the clouds and whilst the spectacular view of the Swiss Mittelland and the Aletsch Glacier never emerge, perhaps the world’s highest Christmas tree does. Flown in by helicopter, bolted to the floor and adjourned in huge baubles, it gives a festive feel to the platform. Elsewhere the Chough birds squawk loudly and are eager for a festive feast of their own. Dipping into our food bags we happily oblige their persistent requests before the strong winds eventually force us to recede inside.

Feeling at one with nature again it is time to make the descent back to Grindelwald and travel through the darkened tunnels once more where we emerge to see the skies above have cleared.

Things remain decidedly less clear on our last night in Grindelwald. It all begins innocently enough with a walk through the snow lined streets to Barry’s restaurant. Named after a beloved St. Bernard dog we step inside to a lively atmosphere where rustic décor mixes with modern architecture and an exceptional menu.

The group order a mixture of dishes but it is the Swiss Dry Beef Entrcote that all eyes in the room are on as. The ‘Big Rock’ version contains 1000 gr of beef, is complemented with 9 sauces and it looks truly mouth-watering.  My plate containing Barry’s slightly less beefy burger goes down equally well as does a bottle of local Swiss red wine one that we charge to the memory of those lost workers who we picture drinking high up the JungfrauJoch. It is then time for dessert and a trip to the nearby Avocado bar where we play a lively game of darts, sample a few local beers before walking back to the hotel for some much needed rest.

A quick dip in the hotel pool the next morning clears away the fog of the previous nights as does the poolside view of the Jungfrau alps. Feeling utterly refreshed, there is just time for some Christmas souvenir shopping and some intoxicating Swiss air. Waiting at the train station and people watching I can only marvel at the magic of Grindlewald, the spectacular new Terminal and the JungfrauJoch that has run pretty much consistently 365 days a year for over a hundred years.

If you're wondering, only three remarkable events have ever stopped the train World War 1, 2 and the final one you guessed it COVID. As the train arrives and departs exactly on time I prepare myself for a return flight to the UK where upon landing my christmas wish is the trains are running and not ruined by the impending rail strike planned for the festive period.  

If you would like to visit the slopes or Grindlewald we recommend booking a flight with Swiss Airways. Flying into Zurich we then took the SBB rail network from Zurich to Grindlewald changing at Interlaken Oust. Our accomodation was in the Romantik Hotel Schweizerhof*****.