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- A Swiss Snowboard Safari
A Swiss Snowboard Safari
I was met with some strange looks from the worldsnowboardguide team as I announced I was going on safari. They had a right to look concerned by this out of character travel announcement but their worried glances soon eased as I explained it was not Serengeti I was bound for but the Rhône plains of the Valais Wallis region.
After a two year COVID enforced absence from the slopes I had to get used to altitudes again. So I began my ascent into a dusty attic where I located my safari equipment consisting of a helmet, boots and gloves. Finally it was time to emerge from lockdown and head on a winter adventure that would see us traverse mountains ranges, trek snowy forests and encounter a stone filled ice field.
Departing Geneva airport by rail I instantly felt the stress of the last few years lifting as the tranquillity of Lake Geneva drifted by only to be replaced by the emerging peaks of the 4 Vallées region. As the train doors opened and we emerged into Sion I drew in a deep breath of the intoxicating mountain air and absorbed the breathtaking views that climbed ever upwards towards our destination Veysonnaz set at a height of 1,233 metres where our hotel the Chalet Royal awaited. After a short bus journey from Sion we arrived at the hotel and checked out the large sun terrace that offered views over the Rhône Valley and the many vineyards below.
Inside the interior of the hotel we found the rooms were equally impressive offering rustic touches and a queen size bed that was calling out to our travel weary bodies. Sleep would have to wait though as we just had time to visit the onthemountain ski shop to collect our snowboard setup for the trip.
With the equipment ordered and the sun setting over the mountains we took a leisurely stroll through the town where we passed a quaint collection of shops, bars and restaurants. Over an evening meal we spoke about the beauty of the resort and learnt of the impressive plans to pedestrianise large areas of the resort, something that has the potential to make Veysonnaz an even more tranquil and environmentally friendly place to travel too in the future.
Rising early the next morning fuelled by a hearty swiss breakfast our granola was swapped for the nearby gondola that whisked us on to the pistes of Veysonnaz where a mixture of wide intermediate slopes and the impressive “Piste de l’Ours” world cup course lay ahead. Freestyle riders were already hitting the impressive lines laid out in the snow park.
Feeling somewhat inspired by their bravery we could not resist an extreme challenge of our own. Lining up in single file we raced down past the speed cameras on the speed trap piste testing our nerves and knees trying to out pace each other. After two years away from the slopes some of us might have clocked in a little slower than previously but what was quickly building up speed was a famous alpine fuelled appetite. Thankfully our local safari guide had a plan to take care of this, guiding us off the piste we headed in the direction her family's traditional Swiss mountain house where we assembled a large wooden outside table which was then filled with a lavish selection of sausages, dried beef ham, cheeses and wine all produced from at the local vineyards and pastures that lay underneath the slopes we were now riding.
It was quite an experience to taste this local produce and then walk inside the traditional house and see an environment where similar meals had been prepared and eaten by 3 generations of the same family. With the sun beating down the food eaten and a cold glass of wine in hand we struggled to find the energy to move onto our next destination and could fully understand why the Swiss family had never moved either!
Consulting the piste map we planned a route for the afternoon ahead. This would see us ride from Veysonnaz to Nendaz (www.nendaz.ch) a resort with a reputation for all things extreme. Navigating a lift system consisting of chairlift and t-bars we rode ever onwards through Siviez 1730m, Plan Du Fou 2430m and the Tracouet 2200m areas before arriving at the destination of Nendaz at 1400 metres.
With our feet aching after a hard day on our ski safari our bodies longed for the superior comfort of the Hotel Nendaz 4 Vallees Spa Hotel. However on safari things never truly go to plan so rather than swimming in the open air pool overlooking the peaks of Nendaz we instead found ourselves slipping into our snowshoes for an evening excursion into a nearby forest for a 5km trek that would climax by melting a local raclette cheese over an open forest fire. So with our snow shoes strapped on we began the uphill walk deeper into the forest. Following our guide past snow filled paths and trees we searched for a suitable clearing where we could all sit together and prepare the feast.
At last we found a clearing amongst the trees where we assembled our dry wood into a pile. Our guide lit the fire and wheeled out a circular block of cheese and with a steady hand carved the dripping cheese onto the waiting bread. Combining the hot cheese, local breads and local wine whilst the spectacle of the night's stars circled above us was a memorable moment.
Setting off into the darkened forest our head torches twinkled on the glistening snow all around us as we trudged through the silence of the forest towards the light of the resort far below us. We arrived back at the hotel with full bellies and heads that were ready to dream about what other spectacles our safari might bring.
What they brought the next morning were the crystal clear views of the jagged peaks and extreme terrain of Nendaz a world renowned resort amongst winter enthusiasts who get up early to find the fresh tracks on the black pistes of the Mont Fort the highest point of the ski area of “Les 4 Vallées” (3,330 m). Also a regular stop on the Freeride World Tour Nendaz looms large in the extreme sports world casting its frozen stare over other big name resorts such Verbier and worldwide wonders such as the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc.
Having spent a relaxed morning navigating the red and blue pistes of the Plan du Fou 2430m and Tortin 2450m it was time to board the gondola to see the extreme side of Nendaz. Passing the Col des Gentaines 2950m we headed to the summit of Mont Fort at 3300m. Feeling like we were on top of the world as the gondola doors opened onto the huge viewing platform we gazed far into the distance where a mass of 4,000 metres peaks glistened. After two years away from the mountains the beautiful views overwhelmed me and overwhelmed is exactly how I felt when I looked down the heavily mogulled black run from the Mont Fort and considered the prospect of snowboarding the route. With no fresh snow and hard packed moguls I decided this was one safari trip best left to the skiers. Thankfully the modern gondola was still waiting to provide a comfortable route down proving Nendaz is also an excellent place to come and see the scenery.
Rejoining the main group we returned by a selection of pistes back to the four valleys hotel where we finally were able to relax our tired limbs in the The Spa des Bisses Spa and Wellness facilities where the open air pool offered an entirely different perspective of the peaks. As we relaxed and rested our tired limbs we pondered over our time in Nendaz and wondered what our next step on the safari the Région Dents du Midi might bring.
An early morning transfer took us onwards to the resort of Morgins where we checked our bags into the Hotel Helvetica and set about snowboarding the sun soaked pistes of the Portes du Soleil ski area where one lift pass covers an impressive 600 km of pistes and gives the opportunity to snowboard through Switzerland and on into France. Our first day was centred around the resort of Morgins where we cruised down a variety of blue and red pistes with a particular highlight being a long winding descent from the Pointe de l’Au chairlift 2110m to the base of Morgins.
It was thirsty work riding all these pistes in the rising March temperatures. Thankfully we would soon be able to quench this thirst at the 7peaks brewery where we took on the popular ‘dents du midi flight challenge’. This would see us sample a collection of craft beers named after the 7 Peaks of the Dents du Midi the Dent Jaune, Fortresse , Cathedrale, Eperon, Led Doigts, Cime De Les't and Haute Cime which each had their own unique qualities. Things got off to a fast start as we progressed through a glass of Dent Jaune 3186m a 5.2% Pale Ale, our drinks descended at pace with the fruity flavours of blueberry and raspberry contained within the 5.5% Fortresse 3164m. We continued ever onwards through the next few beers particularly enjoying the the Éperon 3114m 4.5% American Pale Ale that glided down our throats.
Progress was slow by the time we reached the final descent, a challenging black stout the Haute Cime 3257m at an eye watering 8.0% volume it was almost as scary as the view down onto the Mont Fort black pistes. Never one to turn down a challenge, we slowly drunk the last of the liquid and finished the ‘dents du midi flight’ before wobbling slowly back to the hotel with smiles on our faces.
When the alarm clock rang the next morning it took a while to shake off the slightly sore head from the previous night festivities. Slowly forming our plan for the day we decided to ride from Morgins and arrive in the town centre of Champery. As we set off the temperatures rose and blue skies appeared as we traversed across varied pistes that overlooked the impressive Dents Du Midi 3257m. Stopping en route we watched the freeriders hit the impressive lines at the Snowpark Des Crosets before continuing through Lechereuse, and reaching the Ripalle 1&2 tbarr where we stopped for a long sun soaked. After lunch we descended down the beautiful long red piste from the Point De Ripalle that offered spectacular views over mountain peaks before winding slowly through woodlands to the bottom of the Grand Paradis chairlift
Taking the long blue pistes through the forest with the sun beating down hard we saw the snow levels sadly decreasing to expose the rocky terrain below. Deciding to save our snowboard bases we headed into Champery where thankfully the rock flowing from the Rock the Pistes festival stage was of a much more forgiving nature. Having rocked the pistes a few years prior it felt truly great to return to the slopes and also witness the festival back at its best.
Continuing the rock theme we walked through town to our final destination the Champery Curling arena where the sound of the ‘Rolling Stones’ could be heard warming up or should I say the sound of the enthusiastic members of Champéry’s Curling Club who were busy gliding curling stones across the ice. After taking some time to explain the history of curling and then the eye watering cost of the stones they took us out onto the ice to show us the basics of the sport.
After a few embarrassing slips and slides and much laughter within the group we all just about mastered the basics of the sport. With 8 stones assigned per team it was time to have a match against our fella safari companions. With our team made up of English and French players we faced the formidable Dutch and Germans. The first end we won in spectacular fashion, clattering two stones out of the centre ring and leaving us to claim a 5-2 victory. Sadly the roles were entirely reversed in the second leg as was the score which saw us lose 5-2. With no time left for a re-match we agreed to call the match a draw and head to the local bar for a farewell drink where we toasted an epic week on safari. We clinked glasses and reflected on all that we had achieved together. It was then time return to our hotel the Le White where we just had time for one last evening meal before retiring to the chic alpine style rooms where we driftted off to sleep.
The next morning before boarding the train I just had time to take one final look at the Dents du Midi and the Dents Blanches and reflect on how great it was to be back out in the world having adventures again!
If you would like to have your own safari adventure in the Valais region or on safari you can find more about a trip on the following link Ski Safari 4 Vallées
Visit Valais offer a number of options when is comes to planning your own safari. 4 night trips start from CHF 455 per person and include a double room with an exclusive Skisafari lift pass including 3 days of skiing within 5 consecutive days with access to all areas in Valais (i day per ski area).